Bonjour mes amis,
I’m writing this letter from my balcony overlooking the garden, with its olive tree and arbousier. There’s nothing quite like the taste of morning coffee and a flaky croissant enjoyed outside. The sun is just beginning to filter through the trees on the hill above, and while my timetable is full, I’m looking forward to the day ahead.
Yes, you guessed it—I’m in the South of France, in my beloved Languedoc, at the end of yet another unforgettable wine tour. And what a tour it was! The weather was incredibly kind to us, and we had the chance to visit some new vineyards, meet wonderful people, and taste an array of vins nouveaux (new wines).
Discovering Languedoc’s Vineyards
On this trip, we explored several vineyards that showcased the region’s exceptional diversity:
- La Lauzeta: Known for its organic winemaking practices and beautiful terraced vineyards, La Lauzeta produces bold yet elegant wines that truly reflect the terroir.
- La Madura: Nestled in the heart of Saint-Chinian, this vineyard blends tradition and innovation to create wines that are rich in character and complexity.
- Mas D’Alezon: A hidden gem in the Faugères appellation, Mas D’Alezon is celebrated for its biodynamic approach and unique blends of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.
- Ollieux Romanis: Situated in the Corbières, this family-run estate has been crafting exceptional wines for generations, focusing on sustainability and authenticity.
- Bardi-Alquier: A vineyard steeped in history, offering wines that perfectly balance power and finesse.
Each visit was a journey into the artistry of winemaking, with stories that brought the wines to life.
A Festive Feast for the Senses
A wine tour in December was a first for me, and with Christmas just around the corner, the experience had a distinctly festive charm. The gastronomy was a highlight, featuring seasonal delights like game, foie gras, Boudin de Noël (Christmas sausage), chestnuts, mushrooms, and truffles.
One of my favourite meals was a rustic Pot-au-Feu enjoyed in the Corbières region. This traditional French dish, a slow-cooked medley of beef and vegetables, was hearty and comforting. Another standout was a wild boar daube with trompettes de la mort (black trumpet mushrooms) and mousserons (fairy ring mushrooms). Both dishes paired beautifully with the robust red wines of Languedoc.
An Evening in Faugères
The highlight of the trip was an open-cellar day in Faugères, a picturesque village known for its rugged vineyards and distinctive schist soils. We strolled from cellar to cellar, meeting passionate winemakers and tasting their latest creations.
The day culminated in an unforgettable evening at Patrice’s wine bar, where we shared stories and laughter with local winemakers. The camaraderie was palpable, and though I hear the village was unusually quiet the next day, the memories made that evening were anything but!
Exploring the Heart of Languedoc
Beyond the vineyards, Languedoc is a region rich in history and culture. This trip included a visit to Béziers, one of the oldest cities in France. Its newly renovated halles (indoor market) were brimming with Christmas goodies—artisanal cheeses, fresh seafood, and handmade chocolates, to name just a few.
Béziers is also home to the famous Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This engineering marvel winds its way through the Languedoc landscape, offering stunning views and a peaceful escape.
Back to Edinburgh and Festive Celebrations
All good things must come to an end, and in just a few days, Karen and I will return home to Edinburgh. I hear Morgan is looking forward to seeing us, as the festive season is already in full swing, and La Garrigue is buzzing with activity.
I’m particularly excited about this year’s festive menu at La Garrigue. The Hogmanay celebrations in Edinburgh are always a highlight, with fireworks and concerts lighting up the Old Town. If you haven’t booked your table for our Hogmanay menu yet, now’s the time—our chef has truly outdone himself this year.
Looking Ahead to 2025
As we prepare to ring in the new year, I’m also planning the 2025 wine tour calendar. I’m thrilled to announce that it will include a special tour of Corsica, an island known for its stunning landscapes and unique wines. Stay tuned for more details!
For now, I’m off to Béziers to pick up some final Christmas treats. I hope to see many of you at La Garrigue soon, where I can share more stories from this trip.
If you can’t make it, I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Bonne année à tous,
Jean-Michel
